A chatapati (tukri work) panel (2018) by UnknownLucknow Bioscope
Caṭāpaṭī is a unique craft practiced in the homes of Lucknow. This skill of stitching together small geometric pieces (ṭukṛī) of silk to create elaborate patchwork patterns is also called ṭukṛī kā kām.
It was a skill acquired and honed by women in Muslim homes to create ṭukṛī kī gōṭ for ġarārās and farshī pyjāmās. Left-over pieces of cloth were also used to make batuās (small bags),
tilēdānī (pouch), khānpōsh (a tray cover) and covers for the pāndān (betel box).
Baṭua (drawstring purse) with chaukor (square) satin tukri work (1920/1929) by UnknownLucknow Bioscope
Now ṭukṛī is also popular as lehengā and sarī borders, and also as borders for dulāis (light quilts). Fine ṭukṛī work is always done by hand. For cutting even-sized ṭukṛīs, a cardboard frame placed over the fabric serves as a stencil for cutting running lengths of the same shape. The ṭukṛīs are then sewn together by hand keeping in mind the placement of the ṭukṛī colour to achieve the desired pattern.
Detail of a satin gharara gote done in a zig-zag pattern (1972) by UnknownLucknow Bioscope
There are many traditional patterns into which the silk pieces may be cut and joined, the level of complexity increasing with the number of sides or edges in each piece. Popular patterns are the māhīpusht (fish scales), sitārē (star-shaped), namakpārē or lauzāt (diamond shaped pieces), the patākē/chaukōr (squares), gilourī/singhāṛē/tikōnā (triangles), hexagon shaped (honey-comb), āṛī-chaṛī (diagonal bands) or kōnī (horizontal zig-zag pattern).
Scroll down to see popular tukṛī designs...
Discover the various patterns such a Māhīpusht (fish scales), a combination āṛī-chaṛī (diagonal bands), and a manzil ki gōṭ on a these oppulent Luckhnawi garments.
Seen here are Āṛī-chaṛī (diagonal bands), gilourī/singhāṛē/tikōnā (triangles), sitārē (star-shaped) patterns.
The beauty of caṭāpaṭī lies in the manner in which the pieces are joined together. For instance, if the chaṛīs are joined horizontally, the effect is that of waves of colour. But if they are joined vertically, then the pattern has a cascading effect in a flowing ġarārā.
Farshi pyjama gote made with satin lauzat (diamond shaped) pieces by UnknownLucknow Bioscope
Colour combinations used in caṭāpaṭī ġarārās are usually contrasting shades, the traditional and most popular being a combination of four colours: purple, deep pink, dull yellow and pistachio green. Different shades of the same colour are also effective, as are combinations of only two or three colours. Caṭāpaṭī work is often embellished with thin gōṭā or zarī work over the seams and small salmā-sitārē or bādlā work in each ṭukṛī.
Although an iconic traditional craft, caṭāpaṭī work is now practiced by only a few skilled women artisans in the city.
Tukri is the art of cutting and joining small pieces of coloured fabric to make geometric patterns for garments such as ghararas, lehngas and sari/dupatta borders.
Curation: Noor Khan & Saman Habib
Photography: Ayan Bose, Tasveer Hasan,
Team: Nagma Ehtesham, Nasreen Khan, Nimra Rizvi, Mariyam Imran, Saman Habib, Noor Khan
Text, Editing and Translation: Saman Habib, Noor Khan, Sabiha Anwar, Isha Priya Singh, Waseem Ahmed,Stuti Mishra,Divya Joshi
Video: Aisha Khatoon
Gracious Contribution by:
Ankit Agrawal
Faraz Ali Zaidi
Fatima Rizvi
Nabila Zaman
Tazeen Hussain
