Transactions: Lucknow’s Galis as Centres for Specialised Goods and Crafts
The gali kooche of Lucknow as a vibrant centre of trade.
ReadThe bustling galis and kooche of Lucknow are vibrant centres of commerce that offer a window into the city’s economic and cultural heritage. These narrow lanes, alive with activity, are where tradition and modernity intersect, creating a unique marketplace experience that is quintessentially Lucknowi.
Utensils being shaped in Bartan Wali Gali. (2024)Lucknow Bioscope
A gali in the old city areas of Lucknow is not a static entity; its dynamic character is a result of the interplay of historical events and economic factors. These narrow streets, once bustling with traditional artisans crafting intricate embroidery, jewellery, or pottery, now often host a blend of old and new trades. While some sections preserve the age-old traditions of weaving or metalwork workshops, others have adapted to modern demands, giving rise to boutique stores, cafés, and digital service hubs.
This evolution affirms the resilience of traditional crafts alongside the ability of these spaces to adapt to changing commercial and cultural landscapes, thus creating a tapestry of the past and present in Lucknow's core.
A wholesale chikankari shop in Parche wali Gali (2024)Lucknow Bioscope
As one ventures deep into Lucknow ki galiyan, each gali’s distinct character unfolds. Some are known for their dedication to a single trade, preserving the essence of community-driven specialisation. The acidic smell that emanates from the Sirke wali Gali, for instance, is a reminder of its roots, where vendors expertly produce and supply different kinds of vinegar to the city. Not far away, Chikankari ki gali stands as a testament to the city's rich embroidery legacy, with skilled artisans meticulously hand-embroidering delicate fabrics that draw connoisseurs from across the globe.
A tailor’s shop in Baan wali Gali. (2024)Lucknow Bioscope
The Baan wali Gali, a bustling alleyway in Chowk, served both rural and urban needs with the sturdy, hand-twisted ropes (baan) used to make khatiyas (cots), but the trade has declined. The gali is lined with chabutras (platforms) on which small stone buckets are placed for animals to drink water from.
A shop selling traditional indian breads at Chawal wali Gali, Chowk (2024)Lucknow Bioscope
A nearly seventy-year-old woman vegetable seller told us that some years ago this gali had its own sabzi-mandi (vegetable market) but now very few vegetable vendors are seen inside the gali. This bustling gali is relatively quieter on Thursdays due to the weekly off-day for the markets in the area; the locals thus call Thursday their “happy” day.
Rows of shops selling utensils in Bartan wali Gali. (2024)Lucknow Bioscope
The Bartan Bazaar in the Bartan wali Gali glimmers in the sunlight with an array of utensils, catering to households and temple rituals. A quieter area is the Hakeem wali Gali, where traditional physicians dispense age-old herbal remedies and wisdom passed through generations. The Choori wali Gali in Chowk got its name from a bangle (choori) shop (the current owner is Peer Mohammad) which became so famous that the entire gali was called after it.
Caught in a dramatic moment , flipping a Rumali Roti in Chawal wali Gali (2024)Lucknow Bioscope
The major trade in Chaawal wali Gali is now bread-making and the popular name has changed to Roti wali Gali. Shops making and selling traditional breads such as taaftaan, sheermal, rumali roti, khameeri roti line the gali. The Kumhar wali Gali once had potters shaping clay into utilitarian earthenware as well as decorative items, but one finds only a few now.
At one time, most homes in the Jhawwe wali Gali in the Aminabad area of Lucknow made daliyas and tokris (baskets or jhawwe) and this business has been going on for more than fifty years. Most have changed their work now, and only a few families weave baskets.
Chikan block printing workshop in Parche Wali Gali (2024)Lucknow Bioscope
These galis represent Lucknow’s diverse occupations, preserving their identity as specialised hubs of trade and craft, and embody the living heritage of the city that continues despite changing commercial demands. Despite the advent of modern marketplaces and digital commerce, these gali and kooche remain vibrant centres of cultural and economic activity.
A traditional wood fired oven in Kachcha Hatha. (2024)Lucknow Bioscope
They not only cater to their loyal patrons but also attract curious visitors and tourists eager to experience the authentic charm of the city. Together, these galis form an intricate mosaic of commerce and craft, ensuring that Lucknow’s unique heritage is preserved and thrives amidst the ebb and flow of changing times.
Research
Aisha Khatoon
Ansaf Khan
Nagma Parveen
Documentation - Writing and Photography
Anshubhi Singh
Ayan Bose
Pranjali Sharma
Sandali Sinha
Tasveer Hasan
Editing
Noor Khan
Saman Habib
Illustration
Stuti Mishra
