Kundan

Traditional jewellery with gems mounted in gold casing

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Kundan haar studded with diamonds, rubies and emeralds (1920/1930) by Unknown and UnknownLucknow Bioscope

Kundan is a traditional form of Indian gemstone jewellery where gems are mounted in a gold casing and the gaps between the stones and the mount are filled by pressing in a gold foil. 

Detail of gondani haar yaquti (kundan with rubies) with matching jhumkas (1950/1959) by UnknownLucknow Bioscope

The elaborate kundan making process begins when the skeletal framework called ghaat is created from gold that has been mixed with a small quantity of silver and copper and flattened into strips called sadhai. The strips are used to create the desired shape of the jewellery, then heated and placed on a gold sheet and the two parts are soldered together. The extra gold is snipped off by a chilai process. The product is then placed on shellac and an engraver creates a pattern using a fine chisel.

Kundan khoshe with pearl kanauti set in polki with emerald aaveza and pearl drops (1940) by UnknownLucknow Bioscope

This is the first step in meenakari (enamel work), which adorns the reverse side of the jewelled piece. Then an enamelling- expert mixes pastes of different colours and applies the coloured enamel with a flat nib along the engraved pattern. The piece is dried and heated in a kiln to make it firm. It is then cleaned with acid and soapy water and is ready for gem setting.

Kundan choker with diamonds, turquoise and pearls (1920/1930) by UnknownLucknow Bioscope

For the gem setting, the interior of the jewel is filled with surmai, a mixture of shellac and antimony, and mounted on a rod for easy handling. The gem is set after being positioned and heated with charcoal by a process called khudai. Extra surmai is removed and the setting is smoothed and shaped with a chisel. The jewelled piece is placed on soft shellac and very fine strips of pure gold are cut and filled around the gem, in several layers, till the setting is completely secured. 

Kundan jhumar (head ornament) with minakari and pearls, emerald and ruby beads (1940) by UnknownLucknow Bioscope

The setting is smoothed and shaped along the gem and extra bits of gold are cut off. The piece of jewellery undergoes a final cleaning and polishing process. The common motifs in kundan jewellery are flowers leaves and birds. For the setting, precious and semi- precious stones are used and uncut diamonds called polki are most popular.

Scroll down to see some Kundan pieces...

Kundan choker and chandbalis (1900/1906) by UnknownLucknow Bioscope

Kundan choker and chandbalis, from 1900-1906.

Durrzari kundan kanṭha with fish-shaped earrings and bracelet, Unknown, 1950/1959, From the collection of: Lucknow Bioscope
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Back of durrzari kundan kantha and fish-shaped earrings, with minakari in red and green, Unknown, 1950/1959, From the collection of: Lucknow Bioscope
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Kundan choker (front) set in polki edged with pearls, Unknown, 1900/1920, From the collection of: Lucknow Bioscope
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Kundan choker (back) with minakari in red and blue, Unknown, 1900/1920, From the collection of: Lucknow Bioscope
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Kundan choker (cheenchpatti) with minakari in green and pearl drops, Unknown, 1900/1920, From the collection of: Lucknow Bioscope
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Back of kundan choker (cheenchpatti) with minakari in white, red, green and blue, Unknown, 1900/1920, From the collection of: Lucknow Bioscope
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Small kundan chandbali with polki and emerald drops, Unknown, 1950/1960, From the collection of: Lucknow Bioscope
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Turquoise and pearl kundan bracelet, Unknown, 1950/1960, From the collection of: Lucknow Bioscope
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Kundan karnaphul set in polki and emerald, with pearl drops, Unknown, 1950s., From the collection of: Lucknow Bioscope
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Dajehru pair, crafted in Awadh, studded with precious stones, Unknown, 1900/1935, From the collection of: Lucknow Bioscope
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Detail of a Dajehru pair, Unknown, 1900/1935, From the collection of: Lucknow Bioscope
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Back of kundan samosa with minakari in white, red and green, Unknown, 1900/1920, From the collection of: Lucknow Bioscope
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Back of kundan samosa with minakari in white, red and green, Unknown, 1900/1920, From the collection of: Lucknow Bioscope
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A nauratan (nine gems) kundan ‘taveez haar’ pendant., Unknown, 1900/1935, From the collection of: Lucknow Bioscope
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Back of nauratan ‘taveez haar’ pendant with meenakari, Unknown, 1900/1935, From the collection of: Lucknow Bioscope
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Kundan work button with meenakari, Unknown, 1900/1935, From the collection of: Lucknow Bioscope
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Back of kundan button with meenakari, Unknown, 1900/1935, From the collection of: Lucknow Bioscope
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Kundan and meena work was popular in Lucknow in the past. However, few practitioners of this craft are left here now.

Credits: Story

Curation: Noor Khan & Saman Habib
Photography: Ayan Bose, Tasveer Hasan
Team: Mariyam Imran, Saman Habib, Noor Khan
Text, Editing and Translation: Saman Habib, Noor Khan, Sabiha Anwar, Isha Priya Singh, Waseem Ahmed, Stuti Mishra, Divya Joshi

Credits: All media
The story featured may in some cases have been created by an independent third party and may not always represent the views of the institutions, listed below, who have supplied the content.