A Life Together: Communities and Gali Culture

Raju Khare from Hussainganj told the team that when his father passed away, a Muslim lady from the neighbouring lane sat silently by his father’s body for hours. She did not eat, speak, or interact with anyone and then left quietly. Raju later learned that this lady had known his father since childhood, and the deep bond of friendship between their families transcended religious differences. Raju remembers her quiet presence with deep respect, a symbol of the enduring unity in Lucknow.

Though the frequency of such exchanges has decreased due to rising costs, the love and camaraderie still remain strong. In Narhi, the locals said that there has never been an inter-community clash and the residents have participated in the Christmas celebrations of the Christian community and been one with the Muslims during their Muharram observances; in Laalkuan, people from all communities celebrate Holika Dahan together, enjoying the festival with fervour.

Places of worship belonging to different communities are also found in close physical proximity to each other. In Yahiyaganj, which is the heart of the trading community, the Guru Teg Bahadur Singh Gurudwara stands tall. Many areas have both mosques and temples side by side; some areas also feature churches that are far removed from their congregations.

Pappu [Rizwan], a resident of Nishatganj has been observing jagrans (devotional gatherings) in the lanes since childhood. He eagerly awaits these events, looking forward to meeting his old friends and spending hours reminiscing about the past. His fondness for these gatherings started in his early years, and the tradition continues.

Religious observances are central to the community life of galis. They are an opportunity for people to come together. The narrow lanes come alive in the spirit of these observances; children dress up as various characters from the Ramayana and enact the Bharat Milap. During Ganesh Chaturthi and Durga Pooja, galis are lined with idols of Lord Ganesh and Goddess Durga. Children dance to devotional music played in the pandals.

Ganesh Chaturthi or Vinayaka Chaturthi is a ten-day festival that marks the birth of Lord Ganesha, the elephant-headed deity. Celebrated mainly in the state of Maharashtra, the festival has now garnered mass popularity and the narrow lanes and bylanes of Lucknow are no stranger to this phenomenon. Idols of Lord Ganesha are placed at various locations like in the galis of Qaiser Bagh, Nazirabad and Gadbadjhala, and these galis are lit up with lights and other decorations. People come together, offer their prayers, sing bhajans and enjoy the food.

The Bengali Club, inaugurated by Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose with AP Sen as an active member, is the oldest place where the festivities are held. Other neighbourhoods participating in the Pujo include Kali Bari, Hewett Road, Model House and Vidyant College. In a landmark move, in the 1950s, the Lalbagh Citizen's Pooja Committee included non-Bengali members as a gesture of inclusiveness. Galis come alive in these ten days, pandals are set up, the streets are decorated with lights, devotional music is played and melas are held.

Muharram symbolises martyrdom and suffering. The Shia community of Lucknow observes mourning for a period of sixty eight days. The tenth day of this sacred month of Muharram marks the martyrdom of Imam Hussain. The galis are packed with people dressed in black, walking behind the tazia processions and remembering the battle of Karbala. 

During the day people engage themselves in charitable activities like food and sharbat distribution which is carried out by communities other than Shias, as a gesture of solidarity. People come together for Majlis (religious discourse around the events of Karbala).

Baarah Rabi ul Awwal falls on the twelfth day of the third month of the Islamic calendar celebrating the birth of Prophet Muhammad. On this day, people reflect on the teachings and life of Prophet Muhammad; gatherings are held in mosques and homes where Naats and Qasidas are recited. 

Flags, lights and banners are used to decorate galis and milads are recited, and people distribute food, sweets and alms to the needy. The Jhandewala Park in Aminabad used to host the largest milad in the city. People heard the recitations in adjacent galis. This all night affair would end at dawn after the salaam had been recited.