Eminences Sidelined: Some Lesser-Known Landmarks in the Galis
An understanding of the people and architecture of the galis that are generally unnoticed.
Read1. Maqbara-e-Aalia
Situated on an elevated site in a gali in Maulviganj, the mausoleum has the grave of Malika Aalia, begum of Nawab Shuja-ud-Daula. The tomb was made by her son, Nawab Sadat Ali Khan, in the late 18th century. The tomb has intricate jaalis. It is an ASI-protected site, but is in ruins.
2. Baba Hazara Complex
In the bustling locality of Thakurganj is the open area of the Bagh Baba Hazara complex with three samadhis built in the baradari style. Named after Baba Hazara, an ascetic from the Nank-shahi sect who came from Punjab to Lucknow in the 18th century during the reign of Nawab Shuja-ud-Daula, the complex has three prominent samadhis - of Baba Hazara himself (died 1799 CE) and two other prominent ascetics of the sangat.
Decorative ceiling of a samadhi, in the Baba Hazara Complex, Thakurganj (2024)Lucknow Bioscope
Baba Hazara’s samadhi is of lakhauri bricks and has painted ornamentation on the walls and domed ceiling of the inner sanctum. The central baradari-samadhi (of Baba Amriti Das) has beautiful embellishment in stucco. The structures have similarity with other nawabi architecture of the time with a central dome and chhatris at the four corners. The corner chhatris are replaced by small temple-shikhars in one samadhi. The complex has a large kothi with a prominent double-storeyed gate with the fish emblem and a central courtyard where langar was served.
3. Gurudwara Yahiyaganj
Located in the Bartan wali Gali in Yahiyaganj, the original Gurudwara was constructed in the memory of Guru Teg Bahadur in the 17th century. The ninth Guru of the Sikhs is believed to have stayed at this site for a few days in 1670. The building has been modified considerably since then, and is a major site of religious significance for the Sikh community of Lucknow.
4. Shahji ki Kothi
Shahji ki Kothi, located in a narrow bylane of the Mirza Mandi, is a beautiful old house where the distinguished Hindi litterateur Amritlal Nagar (1916–1990 CE) spent many years of his life. The kothi is believed to have been made by Sharf-ud Daula (Jagannath Agarwal, who was given the title by King Amjad Ali Shah) in the mid-19th century.
Shahji ki Kothi was a large and imposing structure with five courtyards. The house has an imposing entrance and interiors. Amritlal Nagar stands as a towering figure in 20th-century Hindi literature, renowned for his multifaceted contributions as a novelist, playwright, and satirist.
The entrance to Amritlal Nagar’s house in Mirza Mandi. (2024)Lucknow Bioscope
The gali leading to the part of Shahji ki Kothi was rented by Nagar, and the adjacent portion which housed the Kasturba Memorial School which was run by his wife Pratibha Nagar, has age-old structures that are remnants of the city’s Nawabi era.
During Nagar’s time, the kothi was a meeting place for writers, poets, and artists who frequently gathered here and engaged in discussions that enriched the Hindi literary landscape. The kothi's location in Chowk, a neighbourhood steeped in history and tradition, provided Nagar with a range of experiences and stories, many of which found their way into his writings. The house stands in a dilapidated state today.
5. Agha Baqar ka Imambara
Located near Pata Nala, Chowk, the imambara is believed to be the second oldest in Lucknow. It was built by Agha Baqar, who was a commander during the reign of Nawab Shuja-ud-Daula in the mid-18th century. The imambara also has the grave of the great Urdu poet, Mirza Mohammad Rafi Sauda. It also has a musafirkhana (lodge for travellers).
6. Thakur Dwaar
Situated in a home in Bartan wali Gali, Yahiyaganj, Thakur Dwaar is a family temple dedicated to Lord Krishna and is visited by locals. It was made in 1850, and is decorated with old photographs and paintings.
7. Firangi Mahal
Firangi Mahal is a complex of buildings in a lane in the Chowk area. It draws its name from the fact that European traders lived here in the 17th century. The place later became a centre for Islamic learning, and played an important role during the Khilafat movement and India’s freedom struggle. Gandhiji stayed in Firangi Mahal in Maulana Abdul Bari’s home in 1919. Many nationalist Muslims emerged from Firangi Mahal; author and journalist Hayatullah Ansari, scholar Mufti Raza Ansari and others were highly regarded.
8. Nepali Kothi
Situated in BaghTola, Chowk, Nepali Kothi was made in the 1930s by Tej Bahadur Shresth who came from Nepal to trade in medicinal herbs. The architecture with stucco work is a mix of Awadhi and Nepali styles. The family still lives here and continues the trade. Locals hold a Ramleela every year on the chabutra (raised platform) of the house.
9. Mir Baqar Saudagar ka Imambara
Located in Ghariali Gali, Chowk, the imambara was made in the early 19th century. It was constructed by Meer Bagir, a trader in jewels, who is also buried in the complex. The main archway of the imambara is made of wood. The structure has five arched gates and three halls, with large glass chandeliers and candle stands.
10. Koocha-e-Mir Anis
Mir Anis and Mirza Dabeer‘s poetic prowess make a place for Lucknow in Urdu poetry. Mir Anis was born in Faizabad in 1216 or 1217 of the Hijri calendar (1803 CE) and settled down in Lucknow at the age of 42.
Tomb of Mir Anis in Mir Anis Lane, Chowk (2024)Lucknow Bioscope
Mir Anis’s maqbara (tomb) was built in 1874, the year of his demise, and is located in the narrower galis of Chowk. Initially known as Koocha-e-Mir Anis, it lies in the innermost lanes of Chowk and is now known as the Mir Anis Lane. The maqbara is currently in a dilapidated condition. There is also a Mirza Dabeer ki Gali and the revered poet is buried at Koocha-e-Dabeer.
11. Begum Akhtar ki Mazaar
Mallika-e-Ghazal (Queen of Ghazal) Begum Akhtar is buried in Pasand Bagh, in what was once a mango orchard on her estate, but now deep within the lanes of Karimganj. Begum Akhtar rests beside her mother Mushtari Bai, fulfilling her final wish. The narrow and uneven galis leading to this serene spot echo the struggles and triumphs of Begum Akhtar's own life, making it a destination of historical and emotional significance.
The Begum Akhtar Mazaar compound in Pasand Bagh, Thakurganj. (2024)Lucknow Bioscope
For her admirers, Pasand Bagh is more than just a physical location; it is a space of deep reverence. Visitors often speak of the tranquility they experience while paying homage at her grave. It has become a symbol of her legacy, drawing music enthusiasts and cultural historians.
Research:-
Aisha Khatoon
Ansaf Khan
Nagma Parveen
Documentation - Writing and Photography:-
Anshubhi Singh
Ayan Bose
Pranjali Sharma
Sandali Sinha
Tasveer Hasan
Tauheed Haider
Editing:-
Noor Khan
Saman Habib
Illustration:-
Stuti Mishra
