Chalmette Refinery with ruins of De La Ronde Plantation principal house in foreground; Chalmette (2015) by Richard SextonThe Historic New Orleans Collection
Past and Present
Enigmatic Stream: Industrial Landscapes of the Lower Mississippi River is a series of contemporary photographs by Richard Sexton showing the Mississippi River between Baton Rouge and Violet, Louisiana (just downriver from New Orleans). These images document a region transformed by heavy industry in the last century. Here, between and along the banks of the river, themes converge: innovation and decay, the manmade and the natural, the conspicuous and the mysterious.
Complementing Sexton’s photographs are artifacts that bear on various histories of the Father of Waters, offering some context for this 21st-century project. These appear in a section at the end of the exhibition, following the flow of Sexton's contemporary photographs. These items trace the Mississippi's changes over the course of days, decades, and centuries, while paradoxically attesting to the constancy of the waterway.
“The human exploitation of a capricious river has precipitated an extraordinary industrial infrastructure, which has formed an equally extraordinary contrast with the rural landscape around it,” Sexton says. “I have tried to portray it deliberately, purposefully, eloquently, and, above all else, honestly.”
View of St. Bernard Parish industrial waterfront; from west bank levee in Lower Algiers, New Orleans (2014; printed 2015) by Richard SextonThe Historic New Orleans Collection
Mile Markers
Distances on the Mississippi River are designated in miles above Head of Passes or AHP. “Above” refers to the upriver direction; Head of Passes is the juncture on the river where the main channel splits into its bird-foot delta and discharges through multiple channels into the Gulf of Mexico. The stretch of the river covered by Sexton’s photographs, entirely in Louisiana, is not even a tenth of the river’s course, but it is unmatched in the density and variety of its industrial development. Next to each photograph, you will find numbers ranging from 84 (near Violet) to 234 (the US 190 bridge at Baton Rouge), which give an approximation of the location AHP where the photographs were made.
Mile Markers 84–107 (Meraux, LA, to Huey P. Long Bridge, Jefferson Parish, LA)
This stretch of the river, coursing through much of the New Orleans metropolitan area, is the most heavily populated region shown in Sexton’s photographs. Major landmarks include the port facilities of St. Bernard Parish and New Orleans, the two Mississippi River bridges at New Orleans, the ferry terminals in three parishes, and the Huey P. Long Bridge, which is the southernmost railroad crossing of the Mississippi.
West 84
West 84
West 84
West 85
East 87
East 87
West 88
East 88
East 89
East 89
East 89
West 90
East 92
East 93
West 94
West 94
East 94
West 94
East 94
East 94
East 94
East 94
West 95
West 95
West 95
West 96
West 96
East 96
West 96
East 96
East 96
West 97
West 97
West 97
West 97
East 102
East 105
East 105
West 107
West 107
East 107
West 107
West 107
Mile Markers 117–147 (Destrehan, LA, to Donaldsonville, LA)
Upriver from New Orleans, population centers become smaller and industrial sites take on greater prominence. Grain elevators, power plants, and chemical refineries are some of the wall-to-wall industrial facilities lining the east and west banks of the Mississippi. This pattern is interrupted by the Bonnet Carré Spillway, a flood control project that has the capacity to divert water from the river into Lake Pontchartrain. Bridges connecting Destrehan and Luling, Gramercy and Wallace, and Sorrento and Donaldsonville are features of the stretch documented in the next group of photographs.
East 117
East 119
East 120
West 121
East 122
West 122
West 126
West 126
West 126
East 127
East 127
East 127
East 127
East 127
West 127
West 128
East 128
East 128
East 128
East 128
East 128
East 129
East 129
East 129
East 132
West 139
East 141
West 145
East 145
East 146
West 146
East 146
West 146
East 146
East 147
East 147
Mile Markers 167–235 (Donaldsonville, LA, to Baton Rouge, LA)
Industrialization along both sides of the river continues from Donaldsonville (where Bayou Lafourche enters the Mississippi) to Baton Rouge, Louisiana’s capital. The Cinclare and Cora Texas sugar facilities along this portion of the river allude to the dominance that sugarcane farming held for nearly two centuries. Two more bridges span the river at Baton Rouge, whose port marks the practical terminus for vessels that have entered the Mississippi from the Gulf of Mexico, hundreds of miles to the south.
West 167
West 167
West 168
West 168
West 182
West 192
West 192
West 225
West 225
West 225
West 225
West 225
West 230
East 230
West 231
West 234
West 234
West 235
West 235
Historical References
Richard Sexton’s photographs provide one modern examination of the Mississippi River. Since the European settlement of the river valley began over three centuries ago, other explorers, cartographers, writers, and artists have documented this waterway. Items in this section—dating from the early 19th to mid-20th centuries—hint at the varied richness of this historical record, including geographic data in maps and charts, items of popular culture, literary works, and watercraft that floated on the river’s surface.
The Navigator, seventh edition The Navigator, seventh edition (1811) by Zadok CramerThe Historic New Orleans Collection
The Navigator, seventh edition
by Zadok Cramer
Pittsburgh: Cramer, Spear and Eichbaum, 1811
The Navigator, seventh edition pages 22-223, maps XII and XIIIThe Historic New Orleans Collection
The Navigator was a guide to the Monongahela, Allegheny, Ohio, and Mississippi Rivers published in 12 editions by Zadok Cramer of Pittsburgh from 1801 until 1824.
Used by travelers and boatmen alike, this copy exhibits detailed annotations of the stretch of the Mississippi between Baton Rouge and New Orleans. Some of these notes can be seen in the pages reproduced here.
Airline Motors Inn placemat (1989) by unknownThe Historic New Orleans Collection
Airline Motors Inn placemat
1989; printed in color
gift of Mrs. and Mr. John H. Lawrence
This placemat, commemorating the 50th anniversary of a LaPlace restaurant, displays and celebrates the density of industrial activity along the Mississippi River between New Orleans and Baton Rouge.
Coast Directory Coast Directory (1847) by Charles J. Pike and R. W. FishbourneThe Historic New Orleans Collection
Coast Directory
1847; lithograph
by Charles J. Pike, publisher; R. W. Fishbourne, lithographer
The L. Kemper and Leila Moore Williams Founders Collection
Coast Directory Algiers to St John ParishThe Historic New Orleans Collection
This “ribbon map” offered vessels traveling the Mississippi River between Port Hudson and New Orleans detailed information on river distances, parish lines, and property owners whose lands abutted the river.
In contrast to the information on the Airline Motors Inn placemat, this map demonstrates that the riparian land at this time—the mid-19th century—was not used for heavy industry but for agriculture, by individual owners.
Wooden canoe (ca. 1938) by UnknownThe Historic New Orleans Collection
Canoe used to descend the Allegheny and Mississippi Rivers from Pennsylvania to New Orleans
ca. 1938; wood, canvas
gift of Irma Marie Stiegler
American Indians had been using the Mississippi River as a central transportation and trade route for thousands of years before Europeans arrived in North America and began using it for similar purposes. But wanderlust, not commerce, motivated two college students, Albert J. Ivancic and Donald Rycroft, who in the summer of 1938 used this canoe to travel the Allegheny, Ohio, and Mississippi Rivers from Pennsylvania to New Orleans. The two men—both originally from Buffalo, New York—departed from Corydon, north of Pittsburgh on the Allegheny. Covering more than 1,200 miles in about five weeks, the trek included winding river routes through the Old Northwest and down the mighty central artery to the Crescent City. The young men stopped to prepare meals along its banks—often eating catfish caught fresh from the river—and took turns paddling and sleeping in the canoe.
When Ivancic and Rycroft got to Baton Rouge, they met up with Ted Sprague and his pet spitz dog, who were on their own epic descent of the river on a small sailboat. The three men (and the dog) finished the final stretch of the journey together. Sprague’s captain’s log makes note of some the challenges met on their final days: huge wakes cast off by a large sternwheeler, torrential downpours, and boat leaks. On August 18, 1938, they reached the Industrial Canal in New Orleans, where Ivancic sold the canoe to Rene Stiegler, superintendent of the docks, for $7.
Lower Mississippi River Early Stream Channels ... Cairo, Ill. To Baton Rouge, La. (1939) by US Army Corps of EngineersThe Historic New Orleans Collection
Lower Mississippi River Early Stream Channels at Approximate Half-Century Intervals
1939; color lithograph
by the US Army Corps of Engineers, publisher
gift of Col. and Mrs. L. B. Wilby
This map is one of 12 sheets detailing historical courses of the Mississippi River between Cairo, Illinois (where it is joined by the Ohio River), and Baton Rouge, Louisiana.
Previous courses of the main channel are represented by different colors and come from older maps published since the mid-18th century. The Mississippi as we know it dates back millennia to the last ice age, and its particular course has changed significantly over that life.
Survey of the Mississippi River, Chart No. 72 (1894) by Julius Bien & Co. and United States Coast SurveyThe Historic New Orleans Collection
Survey of the Mississippi River, chart No. 72
lithograph
by United States Coast Survey, creator of original survey; Julius Bien & Co., lithographer
from Detail Charts of the Lower Mississippi River from Mouth of the Ohio River to Head of Passes, La. (St. Louis: Mississippi River Commission, 1894)
The Mississippi River Commission published this detailed survey of the river and its banks in sections, beginning in 1879 and concluding in 1894. In addition to listing depths in the river’s channel, the displayed chart shades the land along each bank to differentiate the various crops grown and the type of natural terrain in uncultivated areas.
Even the layout of buildings on some plantations can be seen, as well as railroads that served as the terrestrial commercial network for these enterprises.
Life on the Mississippi (published 1883) by Mark TwainThe Historic New Orleans Collection
Life on the Mississippi
by Mark Twain
Boston: J. R. Osgood, 1883
The L. Kemper and Leila Moore Williams Founders Collection
Mark Twain’s experience as a river pilot informed his writing in the first section of Life on the Mississippi. In later chapters, years removed from his piloting days, Twain writes as a passenger traveling from St. Louis to New Orleans, making classically piquant observations of people and places along the river and on board the boat that reflect upon natural history and human nature. Even 136 years ago, management of the Mississippi River inspired a wide variety of opinions. “During our trip to New Orleans and back,” Twain wrote, “we had many conversations with river men, planters, journalists, and officers of the River Commission—with conflicting and confusing results.”
All photographs © Richard Sexton. Their acquisition by The Historic New Orleans Collection was made possible by the G. Henry Pierson Jr. Photography Fund.
This virtual exhibition was created from a physical exhibition on view from September 17, 2019, to April 5, 2020, at The Historic New Orleans Collection. The exhibition’s companion catalog features select photographs from Enigmatic Stream and essays by Richard Sexton, curator John H. Lawrence, and author Paul Schneider. More information can be found at https://www.hnoc.org/publications/books/enigmatic-stream.
This virtual exhibition was assembled by the staff of The Historic New Orleans Collection, which gratefully acknowledges the generosity of donors Mrs. and Mr. John H. Lawrence, Irma Marie Stiegler, and Col. and Mrs. L. B. Wilby.